Soldering and desoldering of SMD and thru-hole components in the electronics
In this article I want to introduce the in my opinion best instructional videos on the subject of soldering (hand soldering) in electronics, which I discovered in YouTube. Since they are commented in English, I have also summarized the key messages in German.
1st Movie – Real soldering the example of wired components: use this, a controlled soldering station with about 50 watts of power. The tip is always kept clean and in between free with a damp sponge or stainless steel wool from scale, so that the tip does not conduct heat well. Before soldering, cut the legs of the components. After soldering the pins must not be shortened with the side cutter, thus generating a shock wave and fine cracks can create a loose connection after months or years.
Soldering of leaded components and the basic procedure. At the beginning of the video shows the typical errors.
When soldering the conductor and the wire needs to be heated simultaneously with the soldering tip with the soldering tip. Therefore, the tip contacts the same, the copper surface of the conductor and the wire. In order to increase the thermal conductivity, we add Elektroniklot. Elektroniklot is formed into a thin tube that is always in the middle contains a flux, in order to prevent oxidation of the metals. Smokes when the flux during soldering, it is a good sign that even flux exists. After one or two seconds, the solder joint is then completed, which must look bright and shiny. Semiconductors (transistors, ICs, etc) should be no longer than 10 seconds are heated, otherwise they will zersört. This is especially true while desoldering, since the electronic components are additional mechanical load.
For soldering is Elektroniklot of a tin-lead alloy, because this has a lower melting point and also continues in many areas of electronics is permitted where reliability is a must. This is for example the case of the automobile electronics. Lead-free solder is less suitable because of its higher melting point in the DIY and repair.
2 movie – Soldering of SMD components: Actually, the video explains by itself it is important to use a very thin tip and a controlled soldering iron, which should also have around 50 watts. Then the use of additional flux is entscheident for success in SMD soldering. One tip I have even made me, in which I've sharpened with a file, while the tip was clamped in the drill and rotated. I then refinished with abrasive paper and the tip tinned.
Instructional film about the SMD soldering by hand with simple means.
Soldering QFN MLF chips with hot air or the soldering iron is doable by hand and in the movie http://youtu.be/c_Qt5CtUlqY explained in words and pictures.
This video shows with superb macro shots as cords, wires, SMD and bedrahte components to be soldered.
Solder Sn60 Pb 38 Cu 2 for electronics. Leaded solder is still used for repairs and the DIY because of its low melting point, and there are also still buying. A wire of 1 mm diameter is suitable for wired components. The core of the wire is comprised of flux.
The old controlled soldering station Weller Magnastat 50 watts, 24 volts is still making its service. The knob controls the temperature after the Magnastat principle . Various soldering tips are used. The lead-containing Elekroniklot melts at 183 ° C. For electronics work, the tip 280 ° C should be hot to 300 ° C. For heavy work, the temperature should be increased to 360 ° C. When Magnastat principle, one chooses for a bigger tip.
Demo Patented soldering iron after Magnastat principle. Ironically, had the inside of the soldering iron a defective solder joint are nachgelötet. One should therefore further unregulated soldering iron in Reserver have ( full view here ).
Magnifiers and visual aids: In the first film, a watchmaker's loupe is used. There is also the possibility with other magnifying glasses to work, which can be combined with reading glasses to the 2-3 Dioprien. These cost only a few euros in the department store.
Simple magnifier for electronics that does a good job with me and was offered around the corner for a few euros in the supermarket.
Lighting: For all work good lighting is very important. With increasing age, the eyes need more brightness. Moreover, the light should come from various lamps from different directions in order to avoid shadowing.
Desoldering bedrahter components: These small solder suckers and desoldering braid that soak up the solder, are suitable. Braid is very suitable for removing unwanted solder bridges. To relieve the non-plated pads with solder, a pencil tip or a thick sewing needle, whose stainless steel annnimmt no solder is suitable. Leaded electronic components such as capacitors and resistors can also be undermined gently with a thick nail or a thin screwdriver.
Tools for desoldering: solder pump for aspirating liquid solder. With the pencil tip sealed pads can be opened when the solder is liquid. Glass fiber brush for cleaning, Entlötitze for absorbing excess solder. A magnifying glass for the control.
Soldering videos from SM0VPO on British English in three parts:
Part 1 – The Basics – Basics
Part 2 – Tools – Tools
Part 3 – Static Electricity – Electrostatic discharge (ESD)
Training and soldering of capacitors on computer motherboards: This I have under schen.html http://www.ele .. asteln.pl7.de/defm … described in detail. Here must be used, since the inner layers of the computer circuit boards contain large ground planes, which deprived the solder joint very much Wäme a 100-watt soldering iron. In addition, the through-hole pads have to be drilled with a thin twist drill diameter of about 0.7 mm.
Soldering of aluminum: The oxide film on the aluminum surface prevented the rule that the solder form an alloy with the can of aluminum. Under soldering-of-aluminium.html I presented a short film of me that shows how it still goes with the help of lubricating oil which is supposed to protect the aluminum surface from oxygen and thus from oxidation. Other sources recommend instead of lubricating oil candle wax or paraffin.
Desoldering with the hot air gun: This I have under http://www.el … ssluft.html described. I think it is a very rough method that can destroy electronic components. In addition, toxic gases. This method I use outdoors only to cannibalize printed circuit boards.